La Dolce Vita: Ravello And The Amalfi Coast

Where does one even begin when describing Ravello, Italy? Magical perfection? Breathtaking? Enchanting? Those words come to mind instantly. Ravello is my all time favorite city in Italy. Perched above Amalfi, Ravello overlooks the coast and provides a view that almost looks unreal in its beauty. Having been married there at the fabulous Belmond Hotel Caruso (more on the wedding in an upcoming post), and then returning last Summer, allow me to take you on a journey around Ravello and the Amalfi coast.

Getting There

Getting to Ravello is easy from either Rome or Naples airport. I flew into Rome and took a car service for the scenic three hour drive to Ravello. Alternatively, Ravello is an hour car ride from Naples. I recommend flying into Rome, as the airport is larger and you can always take a detour and explore the city for a few days.

Where to Stay

Ravello has no shortage of beautiful hotels, that being said, Belmond Hotel Caruso is the crown jewel of the bunch. The views are spectacular, the service is unmatched and each element of the hotel is thoughtfully laid out to feel intimate and yet never crowded. You’ll leave feeling like part of the family, and trust me, leaving will be hard to do.

Room Tips:

Always opt for the sea view rooms as they overlook the lovely gardens and the the most drop dead gorgeous vista you’ll ever lay eyes on. Many come with private gardens and terraces, perfect for an intimate breakfasts or lounging before dinner.

Things to Know:

The infinity pool at the hotel is the perfect spot to unwind and the poolside restaurant serves the most delicious wood burning oven cooked pizzas for lunch.

On the edge of the world at Belmond Hotel Caruso

Aperitivo time is without a doubt the best part of the day, enjoying the artisanal cocktails by Tommaso, the homemade chips, the most addictive olives and live piano music. My favorite cocktail is the “Passion and Dreams” (pictured below) with fresh passionfruit as a garnish.

“Passion and Dreams” at Belmond Hotel Caruso

Breakfast at Caruso is a daily feast, with every Italian pastry and delicacy you could imagine, available in either the dining room or delivered directly to your room and set up artfully in your private garden terrace. Personally, I love eating breakfast in my robe, overlooking this view.

Where To Dine For Dinner:

The best part of a trip to Ravello and the Amalfi Coast? The cuisine, of course! These are a few of my favorite restaurants along the coast, easily accessible by car or shuttle from Ravello:

La Caravella

La Caravella is a remarkable restaurant in Amalfi, that was the first in southern Italy to ever receive a Michelin star and has been around for decades. Jackie Kennedy Onassis was a fan! The food is perfection, the staff are warm and inviting. My husband and I were invited into the kitchen by the owner and I can honestly say that those moments were one of the highlights of my trip. What makes the restaurant so unique is the adjacent art gallery, where you can purchase beautiful sculptures and artwork by world renowned artists. Oh, and speaking of art, don’t forget to look up while dining. The frescoed ceilings rival that of any cathedral. The perfect ending to this perfect meal? The “Sole Nel Piatto”, which literally translates to the “sun in a dish” and is the fluffiest lemon soufflé you’ll ever have.

Da Gemma

Da Gemma is a casual and yet elegant spot in the heart of Amalfi. The food manages to be innovative without feeling fussy and the ambiance is so inviting. You’ll find many locals dining here, which to me is always a sign of a great spot. A table on the terrace is wonderful because you can people watch on the street below. Also, on the terrace you have a view of the pastry chef, in a windowed room, creating the phenomenal desserts.

Torre Normanna

Speaking of local finds, Torre Normanna is off the beaten tourist path in Maiori, just a short ride from Ravello. Maiori is a lovely seaside town, with beaches and restaurants, and has a more laid back vibe than Amalfi. Torre Normanna has breathtaking views of the sea and its facade is reminiscent of something out of Game of Thrones, as the restaurant is housed in an actual tower. The seafood here was incredibly fresh and presented in such an impressive way. Order the salt crusted whole fish and prepare to be wowed!

Things To Do:

The Amalfi Coast has endless options for activities, but some of my favorite are wandering the piazzas and finding the perfect handmaid ceramics and taking advantage of the proximity to the sea, by spending the day on a boat.

In Ravello, the piazza is quaint and has wonderful gelaterias and ceramics shops. Buying beautiful serving pieces or objets d’art is a must do when in Ravello. The shops will ship worldwide and each time we have purchased pieces, they were shipped via DHL and arrived without a scratch on them. A stop at Baffone Gelateria is a nice midday treat. Indulge in the Hazelnut gelato while sitting in the piazza and enjoying the view. As you walk back to Caruso through the town of Ravello, you will notice the musical touches that appear throughout the architecture. Ravello is known as the “Citta Della Musica” and boasts a stunning outdoor auditorium, where you can take in a concert of classical music during the Summer months. Ravello is also renowned for its enchanting gardens, like those at Villa Cimbrone.

Chartering a boat is a non negotiable while on the coast. After all, you are surrounded by the sea. In Amalfi, you can charter a boat that leaves from the port and can take you around the coast, to Capri and even to Ischia. I chose to charter a boat for the entire day and travel to Capri.

The boat ride to Capri is about an hour, but during that hour you are viewing the most incredible coastline, dotted with villages, grottos, and ruins. Seeing Positano from the sea is a sight to behold, as is riding through Faraglioni as you approach Capri. Once you arrive, you can opt to dock in Capri and explore the town and its fabulous shopping. I would recommend only spending a little time in town and then taking advantage of being on the boat after that. No boat trip to Capri would be complete without lunch at La Fontelina. Usually restaurants that are associated with a beach club would turn out to be sub par, but the food and views here are well worth the stop. La Fontelina has been around since the 1950’s and evokes the heyday of the jet set era.

View of La Fontelina from lunch, and the Rolex cup regatta in the background

After lunch, a swim is in order in the glittering Tyrrhenian sea. Your boat captain will find you the perfect spot for a dip and some sunbathing. If you happen to find yourself in Capri in May, you will witness the stunning regatta of the Rolex cup. On my first trip there, I caught a glimpse of these magnificent sailboats and it was quite a sight.

In addition to boating, the coast has many beaches and beach clubs where you can lounge, swim and dine on a decadent lunch. That being said, there is nothing wrong with taking a day to simply relax poolside back in the tranquility of Ravello and Hotel Caruso. Have an Aperol spritz and unwind.

Ravello and the Amalfi Coast is suitable for an extended stay on its own or you can hop over to other areas in Italy for a change of scenery. Stay tuned for my guides to other cities in Italy, for some ideas of where to venture to next!